Welcome to the Janome Rainbow Quilt Block of the Month 2021! 

Are you ready for a fun and colorful Block of the Month that will add brightness to your sewing, give you a great reason to try new techniques, and, perhaps, even accomplish some scrap busting! Janome Maker Carolina Oneto has put together a delightful variety of blocks just for you! 

Hello! I am Carolina Oneto, Chilean Quilter living in Brazil and a new Janome maker, for more than 6 years I worked with Janome Chile and now I’m so happy to be a part of the amazing team of Janome makers for Janome America. I am very excited to present you with this beautiful project that we have planned together with Janome! Every month, for 12 months, the instructions to make a 12 ”block (finished size) and by the beginning of next year, you will have all the blocks ready to build this beautiful Rainbow Quilt!  

 Whether you are a quilter with experience or a beginner, you will love this project! The final measurements of the quilt are 44 ”x 58” (110 cm x 145 cm)

 What materials will you need?

 Rotary cutter

 Cutting mat

 Quilter’s ruler

 Pins

 Scissors

 Sewing machine 

 Walking foot and 1/4” foot

 Clips for binding

 Neutral colored sewing threads (beige or gray)

The fabrics needed to make the Rainbow Quilt BOM:

 1.- White Color: 1 1/2 yards

 2.- Beige or light gray color(for sashing) or could be white too: 1 yard

 3.- Fabrics of various colors (yellow, orange, red, pink, fuchsia, purple, light blue, blue, light green, dark green, etc.) must be a total of 2,5 yards of fabric.        For example 12” x WOF or 1 fat quarter of each color.

 4.- Back fabric: 3,5 yards 

 5.- Batting: 2 yards

 6.- Binding fabric (bias): 24-inch x WOF

You can use solids or patterned fabrics! you can use the colors you want.

The key requirement is that the fabrics need to be 100% cotton.

All the blocks will have a finished size of 12” square, so that means the unfinished size will be a 12 1/2” square.

FIRST BLOCK: MAPLE LEAF

Are you ready to hop right in with the first block! Let's make the classic Maple Leaf quilt block. 

FABRICS:

 White background

 ·cut 2 squares of 4 1/2 ”

Cut 2 squares of 5 1/4”

 Leaf Color (green)· cut 3 squares 4 1/2 ”

Cut 2 squares 5 1/4”

Stem

Cut 1 ”x 8” rectangle

Block Assembly

Match up two of the larger size 5 1/4″ x 5 1/4″ leaf squares and background squares and place them right sides together. We are going to use these to make 4 Half Square Triangle blocks.

Draw a diagonal line on the back of one of the squares and sew a 1/4″ seam allowance along both sides of the drawn line.

HALF SQUARE TRIANGLES (HST)

Rotary cut both squares on the drawn diagonal line to get 4 Half Square Triangle blocks. Square-up the HST blocks to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″).

Press seams toward the dark fabric.

PIECING THE STEM

Cut the remaining large background square in half on the diagonal to create two triangles. Fold rectangle strip in half vertically and finger press to find the center. Fold triangles in half along the longest edge and finger press to mark the center.

Line up the center crease of one triangle with the center crease on one side of the rectangle and sew in place. Repeat with the opposite triangle.

Square up triangle to 4 1/2”

ASSEMBLE THE BLOCK:

Layout the remaining squares, half-square triangle, and stem square to form your leaf.

Sew squares together into three rows. Press seams open.

Sew rows together and press seams open.

And VOILÁ! I hope you enjoy this first block! 

After you finish your block, please be sure to share a photo on our social media!

Janome Sewing Classroom on Facebook

Instagram

Pinterest

Twitter

Be sure to use the hashtags 

#janomemakes + #rainbowquiltBOM2021

Join Carolina right here, the last Tuesday of each month for the next Rainbow Quilt Block of the Month 2021!

Welcome to the Janome Rainbow Quilt Block of the Month 2021! 

Are you ready for a fun and colorful Block of the Month that will add brightness to your sewing, give you a great reason to try new techniques, and, perhaps, even accomplish some scrap busting! Janome Maker Carolina Oneto has put together a delightful variety of blocks just for you! 

Hello! I am Carolina Oneto, Chilean Quilter living in Brazil and a new Janome maker, for more than 6 years I worked with Janome Chile and now I’m so happy to be a part of the amazing team of Janome makers for Janome America. I am very excited to present you with this beautiful project that we have planned together with Janome! Every month, for 12 months, the instructions to make a 12 ”block (finished size) and by the beginning of next year, you will have all the blocks ready to build this beautiful Rainbow Quilt!  

 Whether you are a quilter with experience or a beginner, you will love this project! The final measurements of the quilt are 44 ”x 58” (110 cm x 145 cm)

 What materials will you need?

 Rotary cutter

 Cutting mat

 Quilter’s ruler

 Pins

 Scissors

 Sewing machine 

 Walking foot and 1/4” foot

 Clips for binding

 Neutral colored sewing threads (beige or gray)

The fabrics needed to make the Rainbow Quilt BOM:

 1.- White Color: 1 1/2 yards

 2.- Beige or light gray color(for sashing) or could be white too: 1 yard

 3.- Fabrics of various colors (yellow, orange, red, pink, fuchsia, purple, light blue, blue, light green, dark green, etc.) must be a total of 2,5 yards of fabric.        For example 12” x WOF or 1 fat quarter of each color.

 4.- Back fabric: 3,5 yards 

 5.- Batting: 2 yards

 6.- Binding fabric (bias): 24-inch x WOF

You can use solids or patterned fabrics! you can use the colors you want.

The key requirement is that the fabrics need to be 100% cotton.

All the blocks will have a finished size of 12” square, so that means the unfinished size will be a 12 1/2” square.

FIRST BLOCK: MAPLE LEAF

Are you ready to hop right in with the first block! Let's make the classic Maple Leaf quilt block. 

FABRICS:

 White background

 ·cut 2 squares of 4 1/2 ”

Cut 2 squares of 5 1/4”

 Leaf Color (green)· cut 3 squares 4 1/2 ”

Cut 2 squares 5 1/4”

Stem

Cut 1 ”x 8” rectangle

Block Assembly

Match up two of the larger size 5 1/4″ x 5 1/4″ leaf squares and background squares and place them right sides together. We are going to use these to make 4 Half Square Triangle blocks.

Draw a diagonal line on the back of one of the squares and sew a 1/4″ seam allowance along both sides of the drawn line.

HALF SQUARE TRIANGLES (HST)

Rotary cut both squares on the drawn diagonal line to get 4 Half Square Triangle blocks. Square-up the HST blocks to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″).

Press seams toward the dark fabric.

PIECING THE STEM

Cut the remaining large background square in half on the diagonal to create two triangles. Fold rectangle strip in half vertically and finger press to find the center. Fold triangles in half along the longest edge and finger press to mark the center.

Line up the center crease of one triangle with the center crease on one side of the rectangle and sew in place. Repeat with the opposite triangle.

Square up triangle to 4 1/2”

ASSEMBLE THE BLOCK:

Layout the remaining squares, half-square triangle, and stem square to form your leaf.

Sew squares together into three rows. Press seams open.

Sew rows together and press seams open.

And VOILÁ! I hope you enjoy this first block! 

After you finish your block, please be sure to share a photo on our social media!

Janome Sewing Classroom on Facebook

Instagram

Pinterest

Twitter

Be sure to use the hashtags 

#janomemakes + #rainbowquiltBOM2021

Join Carolina right here, the last Tuesday of each month for the next Rainbow Quilt Block of the Month 2021!

Welcome Back to the Janome Rainbow Quilt Block of the Month designed by Janome Maker Carolina Oneto!

This month we will make our fourth block. The Dutchman's Puzzle is a classic design that first appeared in the late 1800s. Return of the Swallows or Dutchman's Wheel are two names for this block. About 1895, the term Dutchman's Puzzle was first used by the Ladies Art Company, a mail-order quilt pattern company. The pattern, titled Wheel, was first published in the Ohio Farmer in 1894.

The Dutchman's Puzzle Quilt Block is so much fun to make! It's a basic block made up of pairs of Flying Geese blocks at its heart.

A larger triangle (the goose) is surrounded by two smaller triangles in this surprisingly simple block. Typically, these blocks are designed to be twice as wide as they are tall.

It's critical to choose fabrics with sufficient light-dark contrast.

Remember that all the blocks will have a finished size of 12” so that means the unfinished size will be 12 1/2

Fabrics:

White background

· Two 8” square

Light blue

. One 8” square

Dark blue

· One  8” square

INSTRUCTIONS:

Make Half Square Triangles (HST) 8-at-a-Time

• Place (1) White and (1) blue square with right sides together (you will work with two pairs)
• Draw a line diagonally corner to corner.
• Sew a line 1/4” apart from the drawn line, in both sides.

• Cut the square units in both directions and then diagonally, corner to corner.

Press the seams and trim the block down to 3.5 inches square.

• Arrange your HSTs in the correct layout
• Using a quarter-inch seam allowance, sew together in rows. Join all rows, using a quarter-inch seam allowance.
• Press your completed block and trim it down to 12.5″ square (if necessary).

And that’s all! How easy was that block? Sew simple!!!!

 I hope you enjoy this new block! And don’t forget to share it!

• If you are just joining in, please be sure to make Block One, Block Two  and Block 3 on the Janome Blog! 

After you finish your block, please be sure to share a photo on your social media! We love to see what you are creating! 

Janome Sewing Classroom on Facebook

Instagram

Pinterest

Twitter

Be sure to use the hashtags:

#janomemakes + #rainbowquiltBOM2021 also, tag @janomeamerica and @carolina_oneto!

Save time and have more quilts finished by machine binding your quilt! Janome Maker Melanie Call from Machine Binding Tutorial with Janome M7! 

Hello Janome Friends! I'm Melanie from A Bit of Scrap Stuff (Blog or Instagram) and today I'm sharing my favorite technique for machine binding! 

I absolutely love machine binding my quilts, pillows, and projects because it is durable, quick, and looks fabulous! This is how I bind 99.999999% of all of my projects. It is the way ;). 

Ready to Learn: Machine Binding

*I'm sewing on a Janome M7 - so your Janome sewing machine screen/controls may look a bit different.

Supplies:

• 2.5" strip(s) of fabric for binding

• Dual Feed Foot Holder (walking foot) with Open Toe UD Foot and 1/4"  OD foot

• Janome A Foot * May also use AcuFeed Foot (walking foot) instead

• 1/4" Ruler

• Marking Pen

• A thread that matches the binding

Step 1: Make Binding

• If multiple strips of fabric are needed - sew 2.5"binding strips together on the bias to make 1 long binding strip. Sewing strips together on the diagonal (bias) creates fewer bulky seams.

• Janome M7 settings. A foot, straight stitch, 1.8 stitch length *May also use Dual Feed Holder with UD Foot (walking foot) if preferred

• Place left binding strip right side up. Then place the next binding strip perpendicular right sides together Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the top fabric as shown below.

• Stitch along a drawn diagonal line. Trim 1/4" away from the sewn line. Hint- make sure you have sewn your binding strips correctly together before trimming.

• Press binding strip in half (wrong sides together). The binding strip will measure 1.25" in width when folded wrong sides together

Step 2: Attach Binding to BACK of quilt/pillow/project

• Attach Dual Feed Foot Holder (walking foot) with 1/4" OD foot attached (top foot in photo). Needle position 1/4", Stitch Length 2.0, and activate Dual Feed button on screen (highlighted in yellow in photo below). I prefer to use my Dual Feed Foot for attaching binding as the machine is sewing through multiple layers (quilt top, batting, quilt backing, plus double-fold binding).

• Starting about 6" from the end of the binding tail, place binding on BACK of project. Line up raw edges of binding and raw edges of the project. Attach/Sew with 1/4" seam allowance until you are about 3" from the corner.

• Mitering Corner of Binding. Draw a line 1/4" from edge of project. Continue sewing until you reach the drawn line. Back Stitch. Stitch off the project at a 45-degree angle (see yellow arrow below) - this helps with the next step. Cut thread and remove the quilt from the machine.

Fold binding upwards so edge of binding aligns with edge of project and stitched line from previous step when you stitched off the project at a diagonal to the corner.

• Fold binding down so the folded edge of binding aligns with the raw edge of the project. Attach a wonder clip to hold the binding in position. Begin stitching 1/4" from the edge of the project. Backstitch. Repeat at all corners to miter.

• Stop stitching about 10" from the beginning. 

• Overlap binding tails by 2 3/8". Draw a line and cut on the drawn line. I find a 2 3/8" overlap makes my binding fit best. Traditionally the overlap would be 2 1/2" since that is the original width of the binding.

• Sew 2.5"binding tails together on the bias. Unfold binding tails. Place fabric on the left-right side up. Then place other binding tail perpendicular right sides together. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the top fabric as shown below. Sewing binding tails on the diagonal (bias) reduces seam bulk.

• Stitch along a drawn diagonal line. Refold binding and check that your binding is the correct size THEN trim 1/4" away from the sewn line. Finish attaching binding with 1/4" seam. Backstitch over beginning stitches to secure start/stop.

Step 3: Stitch Binding to FRONT of Project

• Change to Dual Feed Open Toe UD Foot, Dual Feed Key selected, Needle Position Center, and Stitch Length 2.0

• Wrap binding to the front of the project and secure with wonder clips. Bring up the bobbin thread before stitching to prevent thread knot on the back of the project. Stitch 1/8" away from the folded edge of the binding.

• Continue stitching until about 3" away from the corner. Fold binding on the unstitched side up and hold down. Then fold binding from the stitched side over the project to create a mitered corner. 

• Stitch to corner. Raise presser foot (leave the needle in DOWN position). Rotate project. Lower presser foot and continue stitching down the binding. Repeat for all mitered corners. Backstitch over beginning stitches to secure. 

Congratulations your project is now bound and ready to be loved!

Tutorials are available for Oh Happy Day Pillow front (HERE) and attaching an exposed zipper for pillow backing (HERE)

Be sure to follow me for more sewing fun and more examples of machine binding! A Bit of Scrap Stuff Blog (here) or Instagram (here).


Happy Sewing!
Melanie Call